August 6: While the rest of the group is leaving, I’ve decided to stay for one more possible attempt. The calculus that went into this decision is both simple and complex. I want to explain my thinking so hopefully you aren’t convinced that I’m an utter idiot.
Before I start, please don’t infer anything regarding my interpretation of the cause of the events of the past few days on K2. I know as much about the details of what happened as anyone does, and believe me, NOBODY knows just what happened yet. Some events will never be perfectly clear. So I’ll start with a clean slate and consider why I’ll go back up, assuming nothing has happened in the past.
* There is a small group of competent climbers at Base Camp. * The route is generally complete, and all camps are in place. * My personal equipment is all at Camp 2, and I’ll only have to carry food up the lower mountain. * I’m completely acclimatized (as far as I can tell).
Here are the conditions under which I’ll attempt the summit:
* I will only make a single attempt. Then I’ll come home. If the weather sucks, I’ll just get my gear from C2 and come home. * A summit attempt will require a minimum number of qualified climbers. * The summit ice cliff must be in safe condition. * I must be able to return to Camp 4 near dark.
As long as these conditions are adhered to, I’ll proceed. The summit means something, but not that much.
The title refers to the scene near the end of The Hobbit where Bilbo creeps into the dragon’s lair and steals a gold cup while the dragon sleeps. Ascending K2 involves stealth and intelligence, not a massive military-style attack. My goal is to see if the dragon is asleep, then maybe, just maybe, steal a trinket and escape.
By the way, one person says that the long-term weather isn’t promising. So maybe I won’t be here long at all. But I’ll keep you informed.
Mike