Mike Farris-Karakoram 2005

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Broad Peak 2005

Timeline:
June 17- fly to Pakistan
July 3- arrive at Base Camp
August 1- depart Base Camp
August 10- return to USA

Descriptions of the 60 mile trek to Base Camp

The story: our dispatches start here

Here's the route, with a bigger version here.

From June 19 through August 10, I will be in Pakistan attempting the world's 12th highest mountain, Broad Peak (8,047m/26,401 ft).

Broad Peak is located along the mighty Baltoro and Goodwin Austin Glaciers in northern Pakistan. Four of the world's 14 highest peaks are found within a few miles of each other, including K2 (the world's second highest peak).

I will be climbing with Don Bowie. We will be climbing without supplemental oxygen, without guides, and without high-altitude porters.

Many folks have asked about the political situation in Pakistan. While there are areas of Pakistan that are totally bad news, the main climbing areas have continued to be as safe for Westerners as anywhere in the world. The local inhabitants rely on expeditions for much of their yearly income, which helps. Last year I found almost Pakistanis to be almost uniformly friendly.

While this route is not technically difficult, the combination of weather and altitude mean that even for the world's best climbers there is no certainty of reaching the summit. Last year only 4 climbers made the actual summit of Broad Peak.

Safety
Climbing the high peaks is not safe; but neither is driving to work. An interesting analysis shows that since 1990, these high peaks have become much safer than they were in the past.

The main difficulty in climbing these peaks stems from the lack of oxygen in the air . However, many climbers are prevented from summitting by more mundane problems.

Here's a conversion chart for those of you not metrically inclined

Meters= Feet
3000m = 9,843 ft
3500 = 11,483
4000 = 13,123
4500 = 14,764
5000 = 16,404
5500 = 18,045
6000 = 19,685
6500 = 21,325
7000 = 22,966
7500 = 24,606
8000 = 26,247
8500 = 27,887

This satellite image shows part of our trek from Askole